Subaru Egr Valve
Oct/100
![]() 95-98 Subaru Legacy Impreza Forester 2.2 2.5L EGR Valve US $59.99
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV451 EGR Valve US $77.33
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV988 EGR Valve US $151.96
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV987 EGR Valve US $175.72
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![]() 2007 Subaru Forester EGR Valve US $49.99
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV988 EGR Valve US $195.59
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV987 EGR Valve US $224.41
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV988 EGR Valve US $194.04
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV988 EGR Valve US $175.50
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV991 EGR Valve US $210.37
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV988 EGR Valve US $170.65
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV988 EGR Valve US $157.94
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV988 EGR Valve US $136.44
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV991 EGR Valve US $227.59
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV988 EGR Valve US $171.01
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV451 EGR Valve US $77.26
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV988 EGR Valve US $179.83
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV990 EGR Valve US $124.84
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV987 EGR Valve US $209.50
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV991 EGR Valve US $244.21
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV986 EGR Valve US $174.70
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV992 EGR Valve US $250.34
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![]() SMP/STANDARD ETS33 EGR Valve US $69.79
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV1115 EGR Valve US $141.54
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![]() 2002 Subaru Outback 3.0 DOHC EZ30D EGR valve tube o4011 US $25.00
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV988 EGR Valve US $173.22
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV1114 EGR Valve US $145.54
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV1115 EGR Valve US $125.75
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV451 EGR Valve US $79.96
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV657 EGR Valve US $149.76
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV990 EGR Valve US $116.36
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV991 EGR Valve US $218.57
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV989 EGR Valve US $117.57
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV986 EGR Valve US $154.13
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV992 EGR Valve US $223.82
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV987 EGR Valve US $183.94
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV988 EGR Valve US $158.52
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![]() SMP/STANDARD VG158 EGR Valve Gasket US $10.97
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![]() SMP/STANDARD ETS33 EGR Valve US $64.30
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV988 EGR Valve US $136.49
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV987 EGR Valve US $160.76
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV451 EGR Valve US $79.13
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV992 EGR Valve US $266.21
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV990 EGR Valve US $137.77
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV986 EGR Valve US $188.79
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![]() SMP/STANDARD ETS33 EGR Valve US $81.42
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV451 EGR Valve US $100.14
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV1115 EGR Valve US $154.85
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![]() SMP/STANDARD VG158 EGR Valve Gasket US $17.68
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![]() AIRTEX 4F1572 EGR Valve US $209.90
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![]() AIRTEX 4F1017 EGR Valve US $62.62
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![]() Standard Motor Products EGV991 EGR Valve Subaru Lagacy Baja Outback 2.5L US $196.00
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![]() EGR VALVE Subaru 2.5L 2.2L Legacy Impreza Outback US $24.99
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![]() SMP/STANDARD VG158 EGR Valve Gasket US $13.96
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV988 EGR Valve US $171.53
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![]() SMP/STANDARD EGV990 EGR Valve US $111.40
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EGR connection in Subaru Legacy 2.5L DOHC?
I noticed after the engine replacement recently, the EGR valve has the C-shaped copper pipe connect from the EGR valve (that little cap has a diaphram in it) to the backside of the engine. It looked to me that someone put some sealant on the top bolt (possible missing a bolt too) and I can clearly see the lower bolt was tighten to the engine.
Is that sealant really make difference? Because when I pressed the gas wire nearby the EGR valve, it blew some air through the top bolt where the sealant is located.
What you are seeing there is actually a nut that fits around the egr pipe at either end and secures the pipe to the intake manifold opening at the top and to the head at the bottom It can not be removed from the pipe due to the flare fittings that are supposed to seal and prevent exhaust leaks. It is possible that the nut was cross-threaded and not sealing properly. It should tighten into the opening the same amount as the lower end that tightens into the head. If it is sticking out further (more threads visible), I would back off both nuts, (17 mm open-end wrench) top and bottom, remove the pipe, and check the threads for signs of improper installation. If nothing is too badly misthreaded, I would reinstall carefully, getting the top one started in just a bit before starting the lower one and then run each one a few turns in, alternating, until both are tight. They should seal well enough that there should be no leaks and no sealant needed.
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